In the quaint weaving town of Phulia, nestled in Nadiya, West Bengal, 27-year-old Soma Nandy stands at the helm of her family's handloom business, a custodian of generations of artistry. Phulia, known for its celebrated Jamdani weaving and lush cotton traditions, has been home to Soma's family craft for as long as she can remember.
Her journey began as a school going girl, helping her father, Swapan Nandy—fondly known as Swapan Da—manage inventory and create bills for the vendors. But in 2017, her role transformed dramatically when her father fell ill. She took over the reins of her family’s weaving legacy.
Swapan Da had been connected with our founder Arushi, long before Loomkatha's inception. Their bond deepened over a collection of handwoven Jamdani stoles, one of Loomkatha's first projects. Today, Soma leads this legacy, balancing its heritage with the demands of a changing world. "My Baba is my greatest influence," Soma shares. “Earlier, I would help him; now, he helps me.” Her mother, also a weaver, continues to inspire Soma with her resilience, becoming the cornerstone of Soma's drive to sustain and grow their craft.
Their team of weavers, consist of nearly eight to ten weavers that work tirelessly, though Jamdani, with its intricate patterns, is limited to just two looms due to its dwindling demand. Clients increasingly favor plain cotton fabrics, a sobering shift that tells the struggles of Jamdani weavers in the region. Power looms, with their efficiency and quicker returns, have drawn many weavers away from traditional methods, leaving Jamdani weaving gasping for survival. “It’s heartbreaking,” Soma admits. “If this continues, there will be no Jamdani weaving left in 20 years. The younger generation is unwilling to learn—it’s not a viable livelihood for them anymore. They want stable jobs in the service sector, not the uncertainty of the loom.”
Soma’s journey is not without its sacrifices. A graduate in Education Honors, she once dreamed of pursuing a master’s degree in Child Education. "Had Baba not fallen sick, I would have gone for it," she reflects, her voice tinged with both longing and acceptance. When asked about her design process, Soma says, "We create the naksha (design) together with the weavers, with occasional inputs from Baba. Sometimes, designers share their ideas with us directly."
But despite her efforts to innovate and adapt, Soma is pragmatic about the future. "We might have to shift to a few power looms soon if we want to keep our business running,” she concedes. But her commitment to Jamdani weaving remains unwavering.
Towards the end of our conversation, Soma shared a heartfelt appeal: “I hope buyers can provide us with consistent work, no matter how small or large the projects. These orders don’t just sustain the looms—they sustain the lives of the weavers and their families.” While she acknowledges the challenges, Soma remains hopeful. She dreams of a future where Jamdani weaving thrives again, saying, "If we, as today’s weavers, embrace the wisdom passed down by our forefathers and continue to nurture it, I believe India’s textile crafts can find new life. Every thread we weave today carries the promise of tomorrow."
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